For the wooden gun casing, he uses Catachan Flesh and also drybrushes the bearskin helmet with it. For the silver, he uses Oily Steel for the gold, he uses Bronze for any black details, he uses Black Legion. He starts with a gray undercoat and hits all the tunics with Vermillion from AK. To clean up the armor, he goes back with some Rakarth Flesh and finally does some battle damage on the armor with Rock Grey. He does some edge highlighting with Stormvermin Fur for any leather pouches or black details. He highlights the pants with Alaitoc Blue and cleans up the yellow with Averland Sunset. Now, it’s ready for the tabletop, but just be sure to base it first, but you can always take it a step further!įirst up, he tidies up the tunic with Mephiston Red and highlights it with Wild Rider Red. The skin is painted with Guilliman Flesh. Next up, he applied a Nuln Oil wash to everything we just painted. For the collars and cuffs, he uses Averland Sunset. For the paints, he basecoats with Kantor Blue and paints the armor with Rakarth Flesh. He starts with a gray undercoat and hits all the cloth with Mephiston Red. He then goes back and hits the leather with Mournfang Brown and highlights the cloth with Screaming Skull.įinally, he chips the armor with Oily Steel. For the skin, he does a couple of coats with Bloodreaver Flesh and finally washes the whole model with Targor Rageshade.įirst, he tidies up the paints with WAAAGH! Flesh then does a little drop in the center of the camo pattern with Medium Olive Green. For the pouches, he uses Mournfang Brown and then AK Rock Grey for the scarf.įor the silver, he uses Oily Steel for the gold, he uses Bronze for any black details, he uses Black Legion. For the pants, he uses WAAAGH! Flesh and also does the camo with this. He starts with a beige primer and then drybrushes that with Screaming Skull and finishes it with a wash of Seraphim Sepia all over. To keep the gold from being too bright, he does some minor highlighting with the Oily Steel. He starts by highlighting Wild Rider Red on the cloth. He then does a Nuln Oil Wash over all the details he just painted. Then he paints the cloth with Flesh Tearers Red and gently drybrushes over the cloth with Wild Rider Red. Now, we’re going to the chaos side of things, but they fight more like Imperial Guard so that you could use the rules! He starts with a gray undercoat and then does a Rakrath Flesh drybrush over the whole thing to bring out the details. Next up, he relayers up the skin with Rakarth Flesh and, finally, does the iconic tattoos with Stormfiend. To differentiate the black, he does some edge highlighting with Stormvermin Fur. To finish off the cloaks, he does little spots of Ogryn Camo and an edge highlight with it. Now, it’s ready for the tabletop, but just be sure to base it first, but you can always take it a step further!įor the camo on the cloak, he does some little splashes of Militarum Green and then does another with Cygor Brown. Then just a quick wash of Guilliman Flesh on the skin. He returns to Rakarth Flesh for the skin and paints the hair with Cygor Brown. The first color on the cloak is Deathworld Forrest, then a lighter coat of Plaguebearer Flesh. Next, he picks the gold out with AK Bronze and AK Oily Steel for all the silver. Then slowly builds to a full Black Legion wash. He starts with a Rakrath Flesh drybrush over the whole thing to bring out the details and then washes everything but the cloak with a watered-down Black Legion wash. 2Ĭonsidering we’re going over so many models, this will be a quick how-to, but it will get your minis ready for the tabletop! Style 6- Tanith One Year Later, Pass or Fail: Vortex Mixer Shaker For Miniatures & Model Paints Painting Imperial Guard Regiments: Peachy Painting Tutorial Pt.
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